Lunch at the End of the Line: Canadian Coconut Crush Edition

coconut shakeI have a problem with restaurant crushes. I’ll find someplace that I like, and then, just like crushes on boys in high school, I’ll be unable to think of little else for days and unwilling to consider any alternatives. Once I had (and—let’s face it—probably still have) a crush on my local Mexican favorite, Chavela’s, that was so intense that I feared I’d come down with some weird form of pica that involved tacos instead of rocks.

So it’s just as well, really, that Chau VeggiExpress exists on the other side of the continent, or I probably wouldn’t be able to resist eating there multiple times per week. On a recent trip to Vancouver, a city with a large Asian population, I developed a serious hankering for some pho, that delicious Vietnamese noodle soup. Pho, however, can be a little difficult to find in vegetarian form, so I poked around on Yelp and quickly came up with a review that claimed that the coconut shake at Chau was the best beverage the reviewer had ever tasted. She followed this assertion with the sentence, “Seriously,” which is one of the gravest statements a Yelper can make. So Jason and I decided to fortify ourselves there before embarking on the brutal bus/plane/train trip home.

canada kicks assAnh, a sweet woman in a “Canada Kicks Ass” t-shirt, explained the menu to us when we walked in, which included, among other things, three different kinds of noodle soup. Anh’s family has long owned restaurants in the Vancouver area, and they decided to make this one vegan to match their Buddhist lifestyle. They cook their own coconut cream for the storied coconut shake, which you can get virgin or with rum, and they also use it in their coconut curry. Continue reading

The Best Kind of Mess

fresh curd

Fresh cheese curds--this is where the magic is.

Canadians are full of good ideas: bloodless emancipation from Mother England; electric buses; and, perhaps greatest of all, poutine.

For those of you not familiar with this wonder, it’s a fantastic artery-clogging mash-up of French fries, cheese curds and gravy. It’s true that in New York, that great cauldron of dining options, there is poutine to be had. I was introduced to the dish by my friend Ethan at a burger joint in Brooklyn, a mere mile or two from my apartment. (Ethan, I am now realizing, has long served as my food guru, introducing me to all sorts of essentials like Cones gelato in the West Village, the Punjabi cab stand on Houston street and New Haven-style apizza. Combine that with poutine, and I feel that it’s more than anyone can reasonably expect from a single human being.) But in Canada, poutine is more than just a quirky random menu item. It’s omnipresent. It’s a way of life.

poutineLet’s dwell for a moment on the genius of these ingredients. You’ve got French fries, the most addictive item that the fast food industry has yet been able to create. You’ve got gravy, which, more than a term that for any particular collection of ingredients, is basically just a word for a substance that you put on top of something else to make it taste better. And you have cheese curds, glorious cheese curds, those delectable bits of newborn cheese, so squeaky when bought fresh from Wisconsin supermarkets, so crunchy and salty when deep-fried at the Minnesota state fair. In poutine, they become melting, glisteny globs of fatty heaven. (Jason and I made a special trip to a dairy farm on Vancouver Island so that we could get fresh curd at the exact moment it was released to the public—more on this magical place in coming days.)

The origin of the dish is usually traced to Quebec, and the name is almost certainly French, though apparently there is some debate about what it means. Some say that is derived from the English word for pudding, while others maintain that it comes from a French term that means (I’m paraphrasing here) “a big, fat mess.” Continue reading

What Will Oscar Eat?: Arugula vs. Cannellini Edition

taste test

Dylan, poised to steal Exhibit C

Were you a fly on the wall of our apartment, it would not be uncommon, of late, for you to witness a seriously weird scene near dinner time: a human voice screaming “Oscaaaaaaar!” from the kitchen as a black and white cat hauls tail through the living room with a massive, floppy arugula leaf clutched in his jaws as though he just pulled off a highly impressive capture the flag victory. Oscar is the preeminent gourmand among our cats, but even for him, the frequency of this new trick is alarming, not to mention hard on our supply of salad greens.

sensei cat

Meditating and contemplating the Mysteries of the White Bean

It made me wonder if arugula had supplanted cannellini as his favorite food. There was a time when merely opening a can of white beans would send him into near-hysterics, yowling and rolling around on the floor like Beyonce at the Super Bowl halftime show. But human tastes are said to change every seven years, so perhaps cats experience something similar. I decided to devise a taste test to find out.

Let me begin by saying that trying to run a feline taste test in a small New York apartment is not an easy task. I first tried to do a comparison of different kinds of beans, but the other two cats kept dashing into the room and stealing them, leading me to the theory that beans are the salt and vinegar potato chips of the cat world. Finally I managed to divide them so that Oscar (known aliases: Tomato Slayer, Mr. Fofoscar, Fuzzle Face) was left nervously glancing at the door where Dylan (known aliases: Dyl-Sack, Dyl-Hole, Dyl-Bag) was meowing petulantly at the audacity of being shut in the bedroom. Continue reading

Great GoogaMooga: Kelly Taylor from KelSo Beer Co.

nut brown lager

Kelly's personal fave (photo courtesy of KelSo)

From vegan cupcakes we leap to beer, which, if you ask me, is not a bad leap to make, particularly if it’s the delicious Brooklyn-made brews from KelSo Beer. In fact, I think that a fairly good test of a local bar is whether or not it has KelSo IPA on tap; it’s a magical substance that tastes like someone waved a wand and turned a juicy grapefruit into a beer.

So there’s good news for beer lovers attending GoogaMooga, as KelSo will be serving up refreshing craft beverages all weekend long. Here’s more from KelSo brewer and co-owner Kelly Taylor on how he and his wife and business partner Sonya Giacobbe keep Brooklyners happy:

What is KelSo’s specialty and why is Brooklyn a good place for it?
Fresh, classic, and satisfying beers. The people of Brooklyn appreciate quality and freshness, and demand a lot in their local foods. In our beer, it doesn’t have to be a “blow to the head” to be appreciated.

What is your favorite beer of the moment?
Our nut brown lager. Great with food or alone. Malty/toasty/clean. Good to cook with as well. If not ours, I love the Captain Lawrence Freshchester pale ale. Very fruity and smooth.

What’s your favorite Brooklyn restaurant that’s still off most people’s radar?
I love love love al di la in Park slope. Always excellent food. Down the street and known for great beer but lesser known for great sandwiches is Bierkraft. Truly amazing. Continue reading

Great GoogaMooga: Aimee Follette from Sun In Bloom

cupcake

The vegan chocolate peanut butter cupcake from Sun In Bloom that I just demolished

The Great GoogaMooga is upon us! With concerts ranging from The Flaming Lips to Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings, the food and music fest promises to draw the hungry hordes to Brooklyn this weekend. So that you can properly prepare to get your grub on, we’re running some profiles of the vendors we’re most looking forward to as we count down to the festival.

Last year, GoogaMooga was heavy on the pork, but this year it’s aiming to please its vegetarian friends as well. Hoisting high the vegan banner is Park Slope’s Sun in Bloom. Here’s more from chef and owner Aimee Follette on community, massaged kale, and Radiohead:

sun in bloom

If you look closely, you can see that they give a source for this quote. I think that's pretty cute.

What is Sun In Bloom’s specialty and why is Brooklyn a good place for it?
Sun In Bloom’s specialty is creating hand-crafted gluten-free vegan foods, made with some serious love, that can be enjoyed by everyone.  I opened Sun In Bloom with the intention to introduce the healing power of food and how it truly can create a foundation for us all to experience our best life.  My vision for Sun In Bloom being a community meeting place goes hand-in-hand with why people move to Brooklyn; they move to Brooklyn to be part of a strong community. I think generally, people have a strong desire to be healthy and are recognizing the food they eat will either make them feel good or make them feel sick.

What is your favorite dish of the moment?
As the chef of Sun In Bloom, I only create dishes that I really love.  However, I do have an affinity towards our Bella Divine salad — kale massaged in a live (made from sprouted sunflower seeds) sesame ginger dressing, raw sauerkraut, dulse, and avocado. Continue reading

My Summer To-Read Picks from the Food Book Festival

food books

I know the audacity of saying something like this since I edit a food blog, but here’s the truth of it–food books often leave me a little cold. There are just so many pitfalls that a volume of food writing can fall into, including:

  • The tortured chef memoir. Boy, chefs do a lot of coke, or at least it seems that way from the explosion of depressing tell-all autobiographies. And, man, I really do not care to read about it.
  • The restaurant cookbook. This can be nice, I guess, if you really love the restaurant. But then again, if you could really cook that stuff at home, why would you ever bother to go out to eat?
  • The ultra-specific sourcebook. Truly, I sort of admire the geeked-out nature of this sub-genre, but I also find it hard to imagine staying interested in foraging or home brewing or pickling things for upwards of three hundred pages

But enough of the negatives. When I stopped by the Food Book Festival in Williamsburg last weekend, there were plenty of books to intrigue those who love both good food and good writing. Here are a few that I intend to read cover-to-cover:

Cooked by Michael Pollan
If ever there were a food writing superstar, it is Michael Pollan. He can research, he can write, and his books use lovely patterns that release some kind of pressure in my brain. In this new book, he goes back to the structure that he popularized in The Botany of Desire, with each of the four sections of the book devoted to one of the four classical elements (fire, water, air, earth) and how it has changed cooking. Continue reading

The Plant Sale Is On!

wagon

Loadin' up our wagon...

Maybe if you’re a fan of the Farmer’s Almanac, you know that it’s time to plant by waiting until leaves are the size of squirrels’ ears or something like that, but as a New Yorker, I know it’s time to break out the trowel when the Brooklyn Botanic Garden holds its annual plant sale. And that time is upon us. Come on, how often do you get to run over old ladies with a Radio Flyer red wagon and race for plants like its some kind of great pioneer land grab?

plant saleThe plant sale has just about any plant you can think of, from serious landscaping items to tiny, delicate potted orchids. Personally, I think the geraniums at the sale are second none (they bloom for months and have been known to withstand blizzards), and I scored some other pretty flowers for our windows. On the food side of things, our haul wasn’t quite as large this year, since Jason has been into saving seeds. Even so, we’re not always the best at self-restraint. Jason added to his rapidly increasing stock of tomato varieties with a Sungold and a Bush Goliath. And the little basil market packs for $2.50 are great. So if you’re in the area, get out there and grab a wagon–the sale runs through tomorrow at 1 p.m.

And if you score any unusual or particularly promising plants, whether its at the BBG or elsewhere, tell us all about it in the comments section. Take your marks…get set…garden!

The Most Important Things I Learned in Cheese-Making Class

fresh mozz

My very first braided mozzarella knot! Not bad for a novice, eh?

Oh, Groupon—how did we ever find cheap and marginally educational weekend recreation without you? The ubiquitous discount site was where I happened upon the mozzarella cheese-making class at BrickNYC, a brick oven pizza joint in downtown Manhattan. And since I have long harbored a secret fantasy in which I own a nanny goat named Moo Goo Gai Pan and make my own fresh chevre, I decided that it was worth a try. Here are my key takeaways:

Cheese details are not for the faint of heart.
People really do not like talking about food and poop in the same sentence, especially if the connection goes beyond the most basic one. My classmates looked a little dismal at the revelation that cheese is basically bacteria poo, except for two lively young women who clearly had had the good sense to pre-party before the class began. When the question of the holes in Swiss cheese was posed to one of them, she gasped and exclaimed, “Oh! Like little farts!”

Pity the piglet.
Apparently, you can make cheese from the milk of any mammal (yes, including humans), but the only one that tastes really vile is pig cheese. I was really curious about this fact, and asked our instructor Patrick to elaborate, but he said I was just supposed to trust him. Boo. Sounds like a cop out to me. Doing a little internet research today, the most prevalent theory is that pig cheese tastes bad because they are omnivores rather than ruminants like cows and sheep. Continue reading

Kitchen Wizardry by Nancy

I used to think that my mother’s thing for kitchen gadgets had something to do with how much time and effort it took to cook dinner for a family of five, day after day, year after year, and a desire to make the process quicker and easier. There is, probably, still some truth to that theory, but after I saw the way she took to the Kindle and iPhone, another suspicion began to take shape: my mother is a gearhead. There are people out there who revel in having the right tool for the right task, and though I can’t profess to have that personality trait myself, no one epitomizes it more in the realm of cuisine than my own flesh and blood. To get a sense of what I was missing, I asked my mom, Nancy, to take some photos of her most beloved and frequently used gadgets.

wine opener

Manufacturer: Waring

Wine opener
My mother can drink you under the table, in no small measure because she can get the bottles open faster. A few years ago, I was finally coming around to the idea of one of those Rabbit corkscrews that looks like a medieval torture device, but my mother was already a step ahead. This one requires, literally, zero effort. You just put it on top of the bottle, press a button, and the cork magically and invisibly comes whirring out of the bottle. “It never breaks the corks apart,” my mother explains.

aerator

Manufacturer: Vinturi

Aerator and strainer
If ever the cork should tragically break apart, however, my mom has it covered with this contraption. You just hold it over a glass and pour red wine through it. The mesh strainer at the top catches any undesirable sediment and then the wine passes through a series of small holes so that more of it is exposed to oxygen. This eliminates the need to leave the bottle open on the counter, breathing, and, as my mom points out, enables more drinking and less waiting. Sadly, a sulfite allergy has seriously cut down on my mom’s red wine consumption, though she believes that now the same company makes one for white wine, too. “I’m not really sure why you would use that,” she said, but it didn’t sound like she was completely ruling it out.

egg timer

Manufacturer: Egg Perfect

Egg timer
Lest you think that my mom’s gadgets are limited to wine, here’s one that she claimed she used this morning for breakfast. You just pop it in the pot with the eggs you’re boiling, and it changes color to show when the eggs have arrived at soft-boiled and hard-boiled. She’s been using this for decades now, though it has been a subject of controversy. “Dad prefers to time them, and they turn out very nice,” she says slowly and diplomatically. She is saying this because my father has two culinary tricks—grilling a steak and soft-boiling an egg—and I don’t think she wants to discourage him from these tasks. Even so, she admits, lowering her voice, “I still use the timer. It’s much more predictable.” Continue reading

Puzzlum Botanica

Planting season has arrived! Are you prepared to interpret the scientific names on those seed packets? Find out by matching the Latin-looking jumble of letters below to their more common names. Speakers of Romance languages and those who can remember some high school French (Merci, Mme. Dahlberg!) will have a leg up, but even so, there are a few tricky ones…

  1. Cynara scolymus
  2. Phaseolus vulgaris
  3. Brassica oleracea (Italica group)
  4. Beta vulgaris cicla
  5. Zea mays
  6. Solanum melongena
  7. Allium sativum
  8. Capsicum annuum
  9. Cucumis melo
  10. Arachis hypogaea
  11. Ipomoea batatas
  12. Lycopersicon esculentum

Common names

  • Hot pepper
  • Green Bean
  • Corn
  • Eggplant
  • Artichoke
  • Peanut
  • Tomato
  • Melon
  • Broccoli
  • Yam
  • Garlic
  • Chard

Don’t follow this link until you’re ready to see the answers… Continue reading