The greasy paper, picnic table majesty of a Parisi sandwich
Recently, I went to a Volume 1 Brooklyn event celebrating the launch of their sandwich-themed essay collection. It’s not hard to surmise why I attended. Just about everyone in the audience had a deep love of sandwiches; you could see it in their eyes. And while I had no complaints about the quality of the writing, I was underwhelmed by the quality of the sandwiches discussed. It felt a little like a group therapy session for those suffering from sandwich guilt, finally airing their dirty secrets about Arby’s, Subway and White Castle.
People! You live in New York City, a veritable cornucopia of beautiful sandwiches! I am a vegetarian, so a large percentage of these sandwiches fall outside of my purview, and STILL I can list a number of sandwiches that are absolutely-cannot-miss experiences. In fact, I think I will do just that.
Parisi Bakery, Little Italy: Early in our relationship, I was reading a manuscript by Jason that had an extended sandwich-eating scene. My comment in the margins was something like, “I don’t really see how this scene moves the plot along,” and he sheepishly admitted that he wrote it mostly because he wanted to describe a Parisi sandwich. Now that I’ve had them, I know why. Parisi is the most old school of Italian bakeries, and when they pile their fresh rolls with loads of fresh mozzarella, pesto, pepperoncini and just about any other topping your heart desires, all for about eight or nine bucks…marone! Now that’s a sandwich.
Noodle Bar, West Village: Most people wouldn’t go searching for sandwiches at a spot that specializes in a very different kind of food, but I can’t get enough of the vegetarian sau bien at this place. It’s a pressed sandwich, with crispy tempeh, seasoned eggplant, marinated portobello and spicy mayo. It also has those gigantic capers on top as a garnish. Jason looks at me with awe when I rapidly dispatch one of these, because it is kind of greasy, but in my opinion, it’s just the right amount of greasy.
Chevela’s, Prospect Heights: There’s a lot to love about this Mexican joint in my neighborhood, and it’s hard for me to go there and not get the potato flautas. But if I’m in the mood to mix it up, the black bean and avocado torta is spot on. It’s hard, I think, to find a vegetarian torta that isn’t boring when you leave out the meat, but Chavela’s manages to do it with a sandwich that’s both substantial and satisfying.
Artie’s Delicatessen, Upper West Side: Alright, confession time. I don’t really get the obsession with delis like Katz’s and Carnegie, with their massive piles of pastrami. Doesn’t the bread just get lost in all of that? Isn’t being able to pick up a sandwich part of its charm? But if you swing that way and you’re vegetarian, don’t worry; there’s a place for you in this world, and that place is Artie’s. The grilled vegetable reuben is a true mountain, and its paths are paved with sauerkraut and Russian dressing. Get your boots on and get going.
Fanelli Cafe, Soho: Another longstanding Italian place, but of a very different stripe than Parisi. Here, it’s all about the beer, the vintage photos of boxers and the really outstanding veggie burger. Lots of times when a veggie burger pops up on a menu, it means they’re just phoning it in. But Fanelli’s does it right, with their homemade patties and garlicky buns. Get it with the veggie chili and the fries on the side, and you won’t be sorry.
These are some of my favorites, but surely I’ve only begun to scratch the surface. Hit us up with your own sandwich picks, for NYC or elsewhere, in the comments section.