The first day of spring brought a few inches of snow to the Big Apple, and the real apples at the farmer’s market this weekend were looking a little tired. But take heart, ye well-wintered and weary-hearted: yesterday I noticed the first new buds on a tree. Spring is coming. Taking its own sweet time to get here, maybe, but it’s coming. So in celebration, let’s take a look at the first few superstar vegetables that should be hitting your local markets any day now, along with some ideas about how to use them. Those with green thumbs should also think about getting these same plants in the ground as soon as you think you’ve weathered the last frost. (And to inspire you gardeners, I’m using images from the Hudson Valley Seed Library, a favorite of ours, as well as one from Everwilde Farms.)
Arugula: Honestly, it took me a while to warm to arugula. It still seems to me an adult taste, like sitting through an opera or reading a Henry James novel. But warm to it I did, and at no time is it better than in the early spring, when the leaves taste perky rather than too bitter or spicy. Try them in a salad with a nice mustardy dressing (olive oil, mustard, white wine vinegar, salt and pepper), or use them in a sandwich to give it a little more kick than regular lettuce.
Rhubarb: I’m not sure I realized that you could make something with rhubarb and without strawberries until I was fully grown. But particularly if you like sour tastes like citrus (and I do), rhubarb is a natural choice. Stew it with some sugar and a little water, and you’ve got one heck of a topping for pancakes. And yes, strawberries or any other kind of berries you can get your hands on are great thrown in, as well.
Peas: Really, is there anything more emblematic of spring than English peas? I think because I so passionately hate canned peas, the fresh version were all the more miraculous to me upon discovery. They’re so sweet that you can eat them raw, but a handful of them are also great thrown into a lemony pasta sauce at the very last minute. Speaking of pasta, I saw a recipe recently for spaghetti carbonara made with pea shoots, so for those of you out there who are too impatient to wait for the peas themselves, remember that the shoots are delicious, too.
Lettuce: I know, lettuce can sound a tad boring. But local, truly fresh lettuce is a revelation. Splurge at the farmers market and see what I mean. It’s so crunchy and delicate, so polar opposite to the potatoes and carrots you’ve been eating all winter, that you’ll be hooked. Dress it lightly and don’t even think about covering it up with other vegetables; it will be the best salad you’ve had all year.